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Writer's pictureSofia R. Willcox

Trend and Tradition: Decoding the Asóka Makeup Phenomenon

Today, on every scroll you do, Asoka makeup appears. It is blurring the lines between putting a minority culture in the mainstream, even though India is one of the most populated countries, and issues of cultural appropriation and brownface arise. Brownface refers to the use of dark makeup worn to mimic the appearance of a person of colour, typically of South Asian descent (though other ethnic groups may also be included). The bridal makeup trend is often accompanied by the song “San Sanana” from the film "Asóka" (Santosh Sivan, 2001). Music plays a crucial role in Bollywood, serving as a national treasure alongside film productions and acting as a marketing vehicle to promote films on various media platforms. Let's delve into the details of what this means for the movie itself and why the trend can be controversial.

 




Traditionally, Bollywood movies feature around six songs, each lasting three to eight minutes, along with extra-narrative settings and numerous costume changes. Song-and-dance sequences serve various purposes, including softening intimate moments devoid of public displays of affection for a family-friendly and conservative audience, providing interior motifs, offering commentaries on scenes or themes, and heightening the mood or atmosphere. These sequences are a well-known and beloved feature of Bollywood cinema, appreciated not only by Indian audiences but also by Western viewers.

 

However, it's worth mentioning that not every song in Bollywood films is directly tied to the narrative. Many films include one or two songs that may seem irrelevant to the story, often as a strategy to reduce the risk of a box-office flop. More recently, Bollywood films have adopted a technique borrowed from alternative Bollywood and Western cinema, incorporating music more seamlessly into the narrative by having it explicitly heard or acknowledged by the characters themselves.

 

On the one hand, Bollywood song-and-dance sequences serve as a visual personification of emotions such as 'pain,' 'desire,' and 'fantasy.' These sequences are often unrealistic, featuring settings that do not necessarily match the film's narrative, actors lip-syncing, and playback singers providing the vocals. As mentioned earlier, these sequences traditionally represent non-explicit sexual desire, catering to a family-friendly and conservative audience. Moreover, traditional Bollywood films emphasize family themes and values. As such, song-and-dance scenes play a fundamental role in shaping the characters' journeys and arcs, thereby advancing the plot.

 

Song-and-dance sequences in Bollywood films contribute depth to the narrative, rather than merely serving as a respite. While these sequences align with the aim of the melodrama genre to simplify the narrative for passive entertainment, they also serve as a complementary device that suggests something profound, such as the portrayal of a country's essence. This portrayal resonates nationally and even garners identification on a global scale. However, some international movie critics consider these sequences extraneous and may advocate for their removal, arguing that it does not significantly alter viewers' understanding of the film. Nevertheless, such removal may be seen as an erasure of the beloved essence of Bollywood, constituting a form of ethnocide towards India.

 

Bollywood song-and-dance sequences bear similarities to the Western dramatic device of soliloquy. In these sequences, characters often perform directly to the camera, breaking the fourth wall and engaging with the audience. As such, these sequences function as a sung version of a theatrical monologue. Moreover, they contain a melodramatic component that intensifies the visual portrayal of characters' emotions, effectively serving as a connection device for spectators. This connection is particularly meaningful for those facing barriers, whether literal or figurative. Furthermore, these sequences align with the purpose of the Bollywood Masala genre, which aims to unite a wider target audience by tapping into the universal human condition—the ability to empathize and understand the experiences of others.

 

Song-and-dance scenes in Bollywood films serve as a mirror to the culture of India, resonating sonorously, visually, and even structurally. Traditionally, these scenes adhere to the 'mukhṛā antarā' form, incorporating tropes and imagery from Ghazal, Qawwali, and Muslim Sufi poetry. Music holds a fundamental place in the daily life of the average Indian, regardless of religious affiliation, with its roots deeply embedded in religious practices. Moreover, the soundtrack of Hindi popular cinema draws inspiration from 19th-century theatrical traditions, blending influences from Sanskrit performances, Urdu Parsee theatre, and folk theatre of Bengal, Gujarat, and Rajasthan. This amalgamation of influences underscores the unique and defining feature of Bollywood—the musical contribution to storytelling, which traces its origins back to the oral culture of Indian drama.

 

As mentioned earlier, Bollywood songs serve as a reflection of Indian culture, particularly through the representation of diverse Indian dialects. This representation extends beyond the film production stage to post-production as well. In India, with its vast population, film soundtracks hold immense popularity and dominance. This popularity is evident in the translation of soundtracks into twenty-two national languages across the country. Moreover, in Bollywood movies, song-and-dance sequences are often accompanied by choreography, which holds equal importance to music for Indian audiences. Dance is not only a form of entertainment but also an integral part of mass media and everyday religious and family events in India. In contemporary times, films utilize the 'dance hook,' a popular technique aimed at encouraging audiences to replicate dance sequences on social media and television shows.

 

As mentioned earlier, song-and-dance sequences in Bollywood films reflect not only Indian high culture but also multiculturalism. Since the middle 1930s, popular Hindi films have incorporated Western instruments, harmony, and orchestration into their soundtracks, influencing not just the sound but also the overall style of the films. This inclusion extends to both indigenous and non-indigenous forms of music, encompassing national, traditional, and classical genres.

 

Prior to 1947, when India was a British colony, Western influences were often depicted negatively, with Westernized villains portrayed on screen. However, since the 1960s, the West has gradually become integrated into Bollywood narratives, reflecting the emergence of a 'New India' characterized by neoliberalism, urbanization, and technological advancements. Globalization, the growth of the Indian diaspora, and the rise of streaming platforms have further contributed to the expansion of Bollywood's audience beyond domestic borders. This amalgamation of influences has given rise to a new hybrid genre in Indian cinema, aimed at appealing to both Western and Indian audiences.

 

This acceptance of Western culture is evident in Bollywood films through homage references and the use of Hinglish, a blend of Hindi and English commonly spoken by young people in Indian cities. Previously, dialogues were primarily in Hindustani, a mixture of Urdu and Hindi, aimed at reaching the widest audience in the Indian subcontinent. Another manifestation of this fusion of East and West is the inclusion of famous Western stars in Bollywood films, either as part of the cast or as featured artists in the soundtrack.

Furthermore, the dance-and-song sequences in Bollywood films serve as a mirror to multiculturalism, specifically reflecting the religious diversity and the rich heritage of India.

 

The purpose of Bollywood is to provide escapism, offering films that transcend mere entertainment and spectacle. At the heart of Bollywood lies the Masala genre, a term borrowed from the mixture of ground spices used in Indian cooking. Like its culinary counterpart, Masala films blend various elements to appeal to a wide target audience.

 

However, Masala films achieve more than surface-level entertainment; they navigate dichotomies between the West and East, tradition and innovation, and the diverse regional cultures and religions of the Indian subcontinent. This rich blend of elements fosters a connection between characters and audience members, transcending socio-cultural and historical-geographical barriers.

 

As a result, Masala films invite viewers to engage with, interpret, and respond to the movie on multiple levels. They emphasize the universal appeal of Masala, making it relatable to a broad audience and underscoring its enduring popularity.

 

Bollywood transcends mere song-and-dance sequences, offering powerful storytelling and providing audiences with profound cultural insights. Popular Hindi films primarily belong to the Masala genre, blending various elements to create a heterogeneous mixture. However, foreign films face challenges in navigating this landscape due to factors such as supply-demand dynamics, the dominance of mainstream blockbusters in local theatres, and the prevalence of an Anglocentric film culture.

 

These challenges highlight social stigmas and inequalities within the entertainment industry, underscoring issues of ethnocentrism, ignorance, and the hegemony of Western influence over the East. In some rare instances, foreign films may undergo censorship, resulting in the removal of scenes that are integral to the essence of Bollywood. This perpetuates a form of 'Western colonialism' and contributes to cultural erasure.

 

Therefore, when employing elements such as makeup and Bollywood sounds, it is crucial to navigate these blurred lines consciously, particularly with regard to issues of brownface and cultural appropriation.

 

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